Check it yourself Udo. It's the 2:46 mark. Heavy stuff.
simbaTuesday, 7 Jul 2015 at 8:50pm
fuk yeah how heavies that sucked over the falls bit,forgot how heavy these waves are and how gutsy the guys are ...well done.
zenagainTuesday, 7 Jul 2015 at 8:50pm
Healy. That wave was crazy.
udoTuesday, 7 Jul 2015 at 9:01pm
What If ? ? Healy had of made that wave.....biggest barrel ever.
goofyfootTuesday, 7 Jul 2015 at 9:05pm
Imagine the explosion that guy felt that got sucked over when he hit the bottom. And the fear on the way down! holy fuck
zenagainTuesday, 7 Jul 2015 at 9:20pm
Just a total feeling of utter helplessness, suspended in time for a brief moment followed by the inevitable arse kicking of the century.
I bet that beer tasted pretty sweet afterwards:)
curly2alexTuesday, 7 Jul 2015 at 11:05pm
...........stuff nightmares are made of !
Rabbits68Tuesday, 7 Jul 2015 at 11:48pm
Imagine his heart rate during those last few feverious paddles up that wave face into that lip, that he was hoping to get over so desperately . So gnarly. Total respect........
Coops70Wednesday, 8 Jul 2015 at 12:10am
The explosion of the lip and how high the white water came back up after, holy shit how the fuck did he survive that!
crusttWednesday, 8 Jul 2015 at 7:12am
Spent 4 months there in 86 and had my fair share of getting pitched, it actually is not so bad as the exploding white water sort of sends you flying toward the beach rather than holding you down , the big danger is tumbling around with your board. Got me buggered why that guy would wear a leggie out there.
Always dreamed of going back, but after seeing this, not so much anymore, looks like paradise has turned into a ghetto.
gillosTuesday, 14 Jul 2015 at 9:17pm
I surfed there for a month back in 1998, even after weeks of beatings I couldn't believe the amount of power this place possessed and I might add I didn't go out when it go over 6-8. Regarding the leggie, Greg Long said the legrope has come back regarding big waves as it can be used for safety [bringing you back to the surface] also regarding quality of legrope so it won't break.
crusttWednesday, 15 Jul 2015 at 6:10am
First surf I had there I had a leggie, Took a wave and didn't make a barrel and got tangled up with a guy that was trying to paddle out and ended up with a small ding. While I was fixing it the guy in the next room, Uphill Bill was his name, quite a character, asked me how it happened and after telling him he laughed and asked me why I would wear a leggie when your only twenty or thirty yards off the beach and then explained why my board was going to end in 2 pieces if I wore one , made sense!
So after that no leggie and the whole time I was there I reckon after 4 out of 5 wipeouts my board came up next to me, every thing gets sucked out the back of the wave there. There is no real problem with hold downs there as it so shallow, I ducked dive waves where my board bottomed out on the sand, it's the only place where I have constantly gotten airborne from being spat out of the back of a wave duck diving:-). Without a leggie it took 3 months to break my board (4oz glass 6'10"). I have no idea what size i surfed it to, all I know is that wave took me to another level of surfing out of pure fear:-)).
Thanks for raking up the memories of the bet time of my life. Puerto the exception as far a s legropes go imo, any other time give me a bloody long one.
gillosWednesday, 15 Jul 2015 at 8:39am
I should've added after the first surf here I ditched the leggie also. What I meant regarding the leg ropes for safety were for waves like Mavericks etc, helping to alert skis as to where you are, using them to get to the surface. Check the YouTube vid where Greg long talks of his near death wipeout.
Puerto is funny, 5kms of close outs and then that 300m stretch of makeable waves
oldmanWednesday, 8 Jul 2015 at 10:43am
Got the beating of my life getting sucked over like that at 6-8' ulu.
Very nearly drowned (and i was a lot younger + fit).
Remember feeling exactly what zen says about time being suspended as you go over.
Just cant imagine how how you can cope on a wave that size tho. Scary !!!
Comments
Need a reason to bail out early?
Big wave if that's a 9 or 10ft gun.
Check it yourself Udo. It's the 2:46 mark. Heavy stuff.
fuk yeah how heavies that sucked over the falls bit,forgot how heavy these waves are and how gutsy the guys are ...well done.
Healy. That wave was crazy.
What If ? ? Healy had of made that wave.....biggest barrel ever.
Imagine the explosion that guy felt that got sucked over when he hit the bottom. And the fear on the way down! holy fuck
Just a total feeling of utter helplessness, suspended in time for a brief moment followed by the inevitable arse kicking of the century.
I bet that beer tasted pretty sweet afterwards:)
...........stuff nightmares are made of !
Imagine his heart rate during those last few feverious paddles up that wave face into that lip, that he was hoping to get over so desperately . So gnarly. Total respect........
The explosion of the lip and how high the white water came back up after, holy shit how the fuck did he survive that!
Spent 4 months there in 86 and had my fair share of getting pitched, it actually is not so bad as the exploding white water sort of sends you flying toward the beach rather than holding you down , the big danger is tumbling around with your board. Got me buggered why that guy would wear a leggie out there.
Always dreamed of going back, but after seeing this, not so much anymore, looks like paradise has turned into a ghetto.
I surfed there for a month back in 1998, even after weeks of beatings I couldn't believe the amount of power this place possessed and I might add I didn't go out when it go over 6-8. Regarding the leggie, Greg Long said the legrope has come back regarding big waves as it can be used for safety [bringing you back to the surface] also regarding quality of legrope so it won't break.
First surf I had there I had a leggie, Took a wave and didn't make a barrel and got tangled up with a guy that was trying to paddle out and ended up with a small ding. While I was fixing it the guy in the next room, Uphill Bill was his name, quite a character, asked me how it happened and after telling him he laughed and asked me why I would wear a leggie when your only twenty or thirty yards off the beach and then explained why my board was going to end in 2 pieces if I wore one , made sense!
So after that no leggie and the whole time I was there I reckon after 4 out of 5 wipeouts my board came up next to me, every thing gets sucked out the back of the wave there. There is no real problem with hold downs there as it so shallow, I ducked dive waves where my board bottomed out on the sand, it's the only place where I have constantly gotten airborne from being spat out of the back of a wave duck diving:-). Without a leggie it took 3 months to break my board (4oz glass 6'10"). I have no idea what size i surfed it to, all I know is that wave took me to another level of surfing out of pure fear:-)).
Thanks for raking up the memories of the bet time of my life. Puerto the exception as far a s legropes go imo, any other time give me a bloody long one.
I should've added after the first surf here I ditched the leggie also. What I meant regarding the leg ropes for safety were for waves like Mavericks etc, helping to alert skis as to where you are, using them to get to the surface. Check the YouTube vid where Greg long talks of his near death wipeout.
Puerto is funny, 5kms of close outs and then that 300m stretch of makeable waves
Got the beating of my life getting sucked over like that at 6-8' ulu.
Very nearly drowned (and i was a lot younger + fit).
Remember feeling exactly what zen says about time being suspended as you go over.
Just cant imagine how how you can cope on a wave that size tho. Scary !!!